CHIARA SOLDATI UNRAVELS THE HISTORY OF LA SCOLCA!
Eva Markaki: First, I’d like to ask you how you made the bold decision to focus on Gavi, a white grape variety, in a territory traditionally known for its red wines. It was quite a courageous choice, and I’d love to understand how that vision came about.
Chiara Soldati: My family has always had a passion for French white wines, such as Chablis and Champagne. After the First World War, we decided to purchase La Scolca not only as a wine estate, but also as a hunting lodge and a place where the family could spend leisure time. Over time, we introduced the Cortese grape, and the next step was to create Gavi wine. My family was instrumental in obtaining the DOC and later the DOCG designation for Gavi. Our idea was to produce a crisp, mineral-driven white wine similar in style to Chablis. In the 1970s, we also began producing sparkling wine made entirely from Cortese. Our journey began with a passion that continues today, with me representing the fourth generation and my son the fifth. Under my father, Giorgio Soldati, this passion gradually became our main business. We began exporting in the 1960s to markets such as the United States, Japan, the UK, and Germany. La Scolca was also honoured, after the Second World War, to become the official white wine served at the Quirinale Palace, the residence of the President of the Republic. This helped position La Scolca not only as a fine Italian white wine but also as a symbol of the Italian lifestyle worldwide.
EM: I have two questions. First, how do you explain the remarkable success of your wine in markets like the UK, where I personally experienced its popularity and the US, where consumers often prefer big, oaky wines?
Chiara Soldati: Today we export to around 70 countries. The UK and the US were among our first export markets. The success of Gavi La Scolca especially the Gavi dei Gavi Black Label comes from its purity and elegance. It is fresh, crisp, and mineral-driven, with notes of white flowers, citrus, lemon zest, and a subtle almond finish. It’s also a healthy choice, with low residual sugar and low sulfites, and we are certified as a sustainable producer. I like to compare it to a “little black dress” it works everywhere, at any time, and is always elegant.
EM: So you were focusing on sustainability, low alcohol, and low sulfites long before these became trends.
Chiara Soldati: Yes, absolutely. We started many years ago.
ΕΜ: What was the motivation behind that? What were you aiming to achieve?
Chiara Soldati: We love wines without “makeup” wines with strong identity and authenticity. From the beginning, we focused on maintaining this style. Each generation has invested in technology, but always with respect for what we achieve in the vineyard. Even before sustainability became a marketing concept, we followed sustainable practices because we wanted the wine to reflect the vineyard as naturally as possible. We carefully manage the vineyards, adjusting harvest timing and using practices like green harvesting to preserve freshness and balance, especially in the context of global warming. The real work happens in the vineyard long before harvest.
EM: I think that consistency and forward thinking are key to your success maintaining your identity while staying relevant. Today, sustainability and freshness are central topics, especially in the MW community, and it’s impressive that you anticipated these trends so early.
Chiara Soldati: Interestingly, “La Scolca” means “looking far away.” Perhaps that name has inspired each generation to anticipate trends.
EM: That’s fascinating. You also mentioned yesterday that you were the youngest recipient of the Knight of Merit honour. How did you achieve such recognition, and what has your experience been as a woman in a traditionally male-dominated wine industry?
Chiara Soldati: When I started working in the mid-1990s, the wine world was very different especially for women who wanted to be involved in winemaking, not just PR or marketing. I studied extensively and continually trained myself to be confident in discussions around wine and decision-making. At that time, most buyers and sommeliers were male, but the industry has evolved. Consumer preferences have also changed. Initially, strong red wines dominated, often consumed by men in business lunches. Over time, lighter styles like white, sparkling, and rosé gained popularity, especially among women and younger generations. My family taught me that there is no difference between men and women; I had to earn my position through merit. I also learned discipline and resilience through sports. I was a professional ski instructor during my studies in Switzerland and practiced sailing and diving. Sports teach discipline, timing, and perseverance the understanding that success comes through effort and consistency. The key, ultimately, is passion. I am now 51, and I still love every vintage, every harvest, and every market visit. There is always something new to learn.
EM: That passion is really essential. You also mentioned having well-known brand ambassadors, such as Roger Federer. How did those connections come about?
Chiara Soldati:
Many of these opportunities happened naturally. For example, I met Roger Federer in Germany, and we took a photo together with the Black Label. We have also connected with people like Sting, Elton John, Tom Cruise, and Colin Firth, many of whom are genuine lovers of La Scolca. Last year, I had the honour of being invited by His Majesty King Charles to a private event celebrating Made in Italy, where I represented Italian wine. Our Black Label was served for the first two courses. We also collaborate on events such as concerts and luxury events to celebrate wine alongside culture and lifestyle.
EM: That’s wonderful, because wine is meant to be shared and enjoyed socially. It must be rewarding to see it appreciated by such influential figures. What is the oldest Gavi you’ve ever tasted?
Chiara Soldati: In our private cellar, we have a Gavi from 1965. We occasionally taste older vintages to study their evolution. The colour remains clear, while the wine develops notes of nuts and creaminess, with acidity still present.
EM: That’s impressive. I tasted the 2024 yesterday, and it showed great aging potential, high acidity, minerality, and structure. It would be fascinating to see it in 10 years. What is your favourite food pairing for Gavi Dei Gavi?
Chiara Soldati: There are many. A classic Italian pairing is linguine with clams, it’s perfect. Because we export globally, we enjoy pairing it with different cuisines: Greek dishes like tzatziki, Thai noodles, sushi, and even Mexican tacos. The wine is versatile and adapts beautifully to many flavours.
EM: I agree it’s very versatile. I found that even a simple dish like sashimi became more expressive when paired with the wine. The acidity and freshness really elevated the flavours.
Chiara Soldati: That’s the secret of La Scolca, especially the Black Label: it enhances food without overpowering it. It complements rather than dominates.
EM: Exactly, it allows the dish to shine. Thank you very much. That was incredibly insightful.
Chiara Soldati: Yes indeed! Thank you!
Eva Markaki
Dip WSET
