THE WINES OF PORTUGAL
Read here about the varieties and styles of wines of Portugal, a country with a wealth of indigenous varieties, which differentiates itself from any other wine-producing country!
Portugal is folklore! As soon as someone mentions its name, the mind immediately goes to images of tricolor, bright, and featuring completely unrelated color combinations, which, for some reason, only make sense there and seem harmonious. It is one of the destinations that you should not miss under any circumstances. I have not been there, but everyone says the same thing and I have no reason to doubt it since a simple search on the internet lifts your mood and whets your appetite.
If you get tired of the images and go a little deeper into the interior, you will find that this diversity is not confined to the surface but also extends in the same way to the country's wine scene.
In terms of wine, it is considered one of the Old World wine countries, but in recent years, it has received a major upgrade in production techniques, both in viticulture and winemaking. The influences from other countries are clear, and many of the wines are more reminiscent of those of the New World. In exceptional examples, the result is a combination that is truly captivating!
A RELATIVELY COMPREHENSIVE HISTORICAL REVIEW
For Portugal, it all started several years ago. Specifically, around 2000 BC, when the Tartessians (better known as Iberians) planted the first vines on the banks of the Tejo and Sado rivers. Then the Phoenicians took over the distribution of the region's products, and among them was wine. However, it was in the 7th century BC when the Greeks settled in the Iberian Peninsula and advanced viticulture, with a particular focus on the art of winemaking. With the Roman Empire came the modernization of viticulture and the introduction of new varieties, since the wine sent for feasts in Rome was no longer sufficient. A few barbarians later, and around the 13th century, Christianity prevailed, which made it an integral part of religious ceremonies, and so it traveled to every corner of the world by ship, from Europe and India to Brazil, East and England (there they were deified!). In 1757, the country's first prime minister, Marquis of Pombal, wanted to put things in order so the wine that remained intact in the barrels during these long journeys benefited from protective measures, and the Alto Douro region was formally demarcated, while the famous Port became known everywhere and its price skyrocketed. It is rumored to be the first officially demarcated wine region in the world.
In the 19th century, phylloxera came and ruined everything, but in the 20th century, appellations of origin and regulations led to the categorization of vineyards and their unquestionable quality. Today, Portugal has 14 wine-growing regions, with 31 appellations of origin.
THE VARIETIES OF PORTUGAL
Portugal's vineyards are highly diverse, showcasing unique indigenous varieties that express its rich wine heritage. White varieties cover approximately 45% of the vineyard, while red varieties cover the remaining 55%, with the most important being Touriga Nacional. In total, over 250 varieties are cultivated, with the most important being the following:
Touriga Nacional 20%
Aragonez or Tinta Roriz (the well-known Tempranillo) 15%
Alvarinho (the well-known Albarino) 8%
Baga 6%
Fernao Pires 7%
Castelao 5%
Touriga Franca, Trincadeira, Tinta Barroca, Verdelho, Viosinho, Tinto Cao, Rabigato, Loureiro, Arinto, Jaen, Bical, Maria Gomes, Alicante Bouschet and others 39%
AND ITS MOST IMPORTANT REGIONS
Topographically, it is located at a very pivotal point, since the influence of the Atlantic Ocean and the continental zones is a great challenge for viticulture. This proximity to the ocean creates diversity in the climate, while a very big factor in the ripening and life cycle of the grapes is the cool breezes that come from there. In some areas the climate is mild and things are a little easier there. However, in those with a hot and dry climate things are difficult, but even there the altitude and other factors always provide the solution. In general, wherever you are in Portugal, there is a different style of wine even if it is from the same variety. Which, between us, does not cause us a huge surprise. The best regions are the following:
Douro: If you read all of the above and especially the part of the not-so-short historical flashback, you will remember that Douro is the oldest and most famous wine-producing region of Portugal. When you hear Port, you will look here, since it is the mother of sweet fortified wines. The Alto Douro Valley recognized as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO and the first to receive the DOC (Denominacao de Origem Controlada) designation of origin, is located on steep slopes and terraces around the river, which are among the most advantageous locations for their maturation.
Main varieties: Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz (the famous Tempranillo), Tinta Barroca, Malvasia Fina, Vioshino, Verdelho, Sousao. Port is produced here, which is sweet, but the region produces excellent red wines with great aging potential and exemplary whites. Fruity, full-bodied, and unbeatable value for money. Some very representative examples with tremendous value for money are the Crasto Superior Branco 2023, Crasto Superior Tinto 2021, and Roquette & Cazes 2021.
Vinho Verde: Located in the northwestern part of the country, it is known for its light, fresh, and often slightly sparkling white wines. Here, the Atlantic does whatever it wants, due to its proximity and the rains rarely stop, resulting in wines with high acidity, intense aromas of citrus fruits, and flowers, with a subtle minerality. The name is not accidental, as it means "green wine" and suggests that these wines are best consumed while they are still young!
Main varieties: Alvarinho, Loureiro, Arinto
Dao: Heading towards central Portugal, and an area that is almost surrounded by mountains. This serves as a natural protective barrier against extreme weather events. The wines here are mainly red, fruity, very balanced, and elegant, with great aging potential.
Main varieties: it is the home of Touriga Nacional, the most noble red variety of Portugal and many compare it to those of Bordeaux (of course at completely different prices). You will also find Tinta Roriz, Alfrocheiro, Jaen.
Alentejo: This is the largest wine-producing region in Portugal and consists of 8 sub-regions. The great variations in climate also result in a great variety of wines. Soft, aromatic whites on the one hand, reds with full body, fruity character, and soft tannins, on the other.
Main varieties: Aragonez (Tempranillo), Trincadeira, Alicante Bouschet.
Bairrada: Located between the Atlantic and the Dao. Due to its location, the ripening of the grapes depends entirely on the weather conditions and sometimes is not the desired one, as a result of which the wines each year have, partially, a different character. The local variety Baga gives intense, tannic red wines with character, which have high acidity and robust tannins, as well as a great ally in the year. Here we will also find sparkling wines from Bical and Maria Gomes, which are value for money.
Main varieties: Baga, Touriga Nacional, Maria Gomes, Bical.
Madeira: This island region produces the famous fortified Madeira, a legendary wine. It has incredible aging and rich flavors of caramel, nuts, and roasted spices. It is surprising that even after 50 years, these wines can maintain their fruit and freshness! Dry wines are also produced in the region.
Main varieties: Sercial, Verdelho, Bual, Malvasia.
Lisbon: Portugal’s second-largest wine region. The best vineyards are located north of the city, while the winemaking there has international influences, with multi-varietal wines, and international and local varieties that result in light whites to rich reds. The so-called Vinho Regional!
Main varieties: Arinto, Fernao Pires, Alicante Bouschet, Castelao.
THE RESUME
Portugal certainly doesn't have the marketing of France and the rest of its neighbors (deep down, I think they do it just to keep it all for themselves), but it is constantly gaining ground among wine professionals and oenophiles worldwide. Portuguese wines are renowned for their excellent value for money, which makes them very easy to put on the everyday table. Of course, it also has much more robust (and expensive) wines. Native varieties such as Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca, Verdelho, and Vioshino have a unique ability to marry tradition with innovation and produce wines very characteristic of the country and its terroir. If you haven't gotten into it yet, don't wait because your favorite wine may not be what you thought until now!
Christina Tsogka
