The Capellanía vineyard was planted in 1945 at the highest point of the Ygay Estate, and from there comes the white Rioja Capellanía 2019 by Marqués de Murrieta. The world’s most famous sommeliers swear by it and rightly so, as it may be the best white Rioja in the world. If white Rioja had a voice, it would resonate everywhere with the name Capellanía, carrying depth, structure, and persistence! Aromas of stone fruit, lemon, bay leaf, hazelnut, smoke, butter, toast, and vanilla from the 2019 vintage earned 96 points from James Suckling, 95 from Robert Parker, and another 95 from Tim Atkin. It has the power of a red but the elegance of a white, pairing perfectly with Norwegian salmon fillet baked with lemon juice, basil, anchovies, and ripe tomatoes, a touch of harissa, served over chickpeas and bulgur, with a refreshing note of yogurt. The wine’s lemony notes meet the Mediterranean aromas of the salmon, while its creamy texture balances the spicy sauce and the freshness of the yogurt.
Telmo Rodriguez is the maverick of Spanish wine, raised in the iconic Bodegas Remelluri, and since the late ’90s he has roamed Spain in search of the oldest vineyards and he found them. Through Bodega Lanzaga LZ 2022 he shows that value is not measured only in price. A blend of Tempranillo, Graciano, and Garnacha from Rioja’s most historic plots fermented in concrete tanks, remained there for 6–7 months, and earned 94 points from James Suckling! Fruit purity and the spicy, earthy character of the classic school created a super-value Rioja, uniquely paired with Caribbean style turkey, spicy cornbread, and stuffing of chorizo, corn, Scotch bonnet peppers, and coriander. Its fruity notes balance the sweetness of the cornbread, while hints of dulce de leche, butter, and white pepper embrace the chorizo and fiery peppers. Simply sensational!
Luciano de Murrieta was the man who changed tradition, inspired by Bordeaux’s famous châteaux, and was the first to introduce oak barrels in the region, establishing a style that endured over time. Rioja 2021 by Marqués de Murrieta is a masterful balance between classic and modern eras. The classic blend of Tempranillo, Graciano, Mazuelo, and Garnacha aged 21 months in American oak barrels and received 95 points from Tim Atkin. Cherry, cassis, raspberry, and herbal notes pair beautifully with beef Wellington with mushrooms. The rich flavor of the meat and mushroom cream are embraced by the wine’s fruity notes, while its intensity, juicy mouthfeel, and soft tannins stand joyfully alongside this rich dish.
Xerico 2019 from Tentenublo Wines by Roberto Oliván has shaken things up, and every time we talk about its incredible evolution, we wholeheartedly agree. If you haven’t tried it yet, it’s the creation of Oliván, an alternative winemaker who wanted to showcase Rioja’s terroir with freshness and less oak! With Xerico he expresses the concept of xeric humidity (Xeric Torriortent), which gave the wine its name. The 2019 vintage is considered one of the best. I’ve enjoyed it with a burger featuring juicy beef patty grilled to perfection, melted graviera cheese, crispy smoked bacon, and fresh rainbow slaw of beetroot and herbs, with a sauce of yogurt, ketchup, Worcestershire, Tabasco, mustard, and pickled cucumber. Enough said!
Founded in 1852, Marqués de Murrieta shaped Rioja’s path and elevated it to what we know today. The Rioja Gran Reserva 2016 maintains the dynamic character of the Tempranillo, Garnacha, Mazuelo, and Graciano blend, with unique freshness thanks to fermentation in tanks and the soils of Rioja Alta. The wine aged 26 months in American oak barrels and several years in bottle, earning 96 points from James Suckling and Tim Atkin MW, 94 from Robert Parker, and 93 from Wine Spectator. Promising 15–30 years of evolution, it bursts with aromas of blackberry, cherry, plum, spices, chocolate, coconut, leather, and smoke. To see it shine, pair it with roast duck seasoned with Chinese spices and Marsala sauce. The earthy flavor of the duck and the rich sauce embrace the wine’s complexity, while Rioja Alta’s freshness ties perfectly with Marsala’s sweetness.
We remain in Rioja Alavesa at Contino, the first château of Rioja! Contino Reserva 2020 comes from estate-owned vineyards surrounding the winery, with a philosophy rooted in the legendary Imperial and Viña Real Gran Reserva of CVNE’s iconic winemaker Ezequiel Garcia. Aged in French and American barrels, it combines aromas of black cherry, plum, and vanilla with strength and elegance, pairing dreamily with dry-aged ribeye grilled with garlic butter and rosemary. The fruit and vanilla embrace the earthy flavor of the meat, while rosemary in the sauce creates a flavor bridge with the wine’s herbal notes, making the pairing perfectly harmonious.
Nearby in Rioja Alavesa, the Artuke winery and brothers Arturo and Kike de Miguel Blanco craft a different and very intriguing expression. They experimented with carbonic maceration and no oak, and its presence here proves the experiment succeeded and more. It delivered explosive fruit aromas and silky tannins! Carbonica 2024, with 92 points from Robert Parker, is a unique expression of Tempranillo and Viura, briefly aged in concrete tanks to preserve freshness. Try it with chicken yakitori, a classic Japanese street food: skewers grilled and glazed with sweet-sour soy, mirin, and sugar. The sweet-sour sauce balances perfectly with the fruit, while silky tannins embrace the chicken’s richness, offering simplicity and deliciousness!
It may sound exaggerated, but Imperial Gran Reserva Rioja 2017 from historic CVNE is one of Spain’s most iconic wines, produced only in exceptional vintages. With aromas of ripe fruit, spices, and velvety texture, it pairs ideally with grilled sirloin steak and red wine sauce with rosemary. The tannins provide structure and balance against the protein and richness of the steak without overpowering it, while dense black fruit complements the sweet, rich flavor of the red wine sauce.
The unconventional Roberto Oliván strikes again, this time with the classic blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha, Viura, and Malvasía aged in second-use barrels and concrete tanks. Custero 2023 from Tentenublo Wines is for those seeking something different in Rioja. A marriage of tradition and new generation, with aromas of red berries, cherries, strawberries, vanilla, and anise, it must be tried with slow-cooked sausage casserole with tomatoes, carrots, and celery, flavored with thyme and bay leaf, and potato gnocchi. Harmony, complexity, and boldness!
Haven’t we said Rioja isn’t only about red wines? The historic CVNE created Monopole Rioja Blanco Clasico Reserva 2021 to highlight Rioja Alta’s Viura. With top scores and aromas of apple, lemon, chamomile, and almond, it combines freshness and complexity. But the real game-changer is its aging under flor, giving it a rich gastronomic character. Pair it with cod fillet topped with a crispy crust of sun-dried tomatoes, basil, parmesan, garlic, and a touch of chili. The wine’s acidity cleanses the palate from the fish’s richness, while its herbal notes connect with the basil and aromatic crust.
Christina Tsogka