FUNKY WINES INSIDE OUT
We often hear the word "funky" when describing a wine. Lately, this is happening more and more often. And our mind automatically goes to something very different, exotic, special, and always very pleasant. But why have we made this connection and how did this word enter and almost become established in the world of wine and its description?
What does the word funky mean and how was it established in general
First, experiment and notice the thoughts that come to your mind when you hear the word "funky". An image of saxophones, trumpet players, and gentlemen with robust voices singing and swaying to jazz rhythms, and inevitably is associated with fun and enjoyment. And yes you are now thinking about how can this end up having anything to do with wine. The roots of the word lie in the Latin 'fumigare', meaning 'to smoke'. Behind this, of course, hides, as usual, the French temperament and the word "fungiere", from the ancient French dialect spoken in the north of France. The word was associated with strong smells and more specifically with those that one could not precisely identify, but could bring you into a trance of fun and euphoria when listening to jazz music while reminding of something earthy and a little confused, complex we would say!
And there began its relationship with wine.
What does it represent in the field of wine?
Funky wines are rebellion wines! They come from the constant searches of winemakers who want to get off the beaten path and reach the vine and the grape to the extremes, exhausting all their potential. Unconventional, and challenging, but promising you an experience that will certainly be pleasant. Of course, to be completely honest, there is also an audience that does not love them at all. But this is also the case with jazz music...
When do we call a wine funky and what are its characteristics?
Winemakers follow different techniques that include fermentations with native yeasts and not conventional ones, minimal chemical interventions, i.e. little or no use of sulfites, but also zero filtration (and so they come out a bit cloudy and maybe astringent!). They come from biodynamic crops, which result in unique results depending on the terroir of each region. Last but not least, they play a perpetual game of "tanks". A variety of concrete tanks, amphorae, eggs, new and old barrels, and every possible combination of these, is another reason for creating very special and distinct aromas, which you do not find in conventional vinifications.
Yes, it's also the label…
And let's move on to the funkiest part of the funky wines. The label! Bold colors, funny caricatures, and special fonts decorate the bottles and catch the eye from afar. After all, this is an additional requirement for funky wines, to create the feeling of bliss before they are even tasted. The diversity of the winemaker and his technique is also reflected in the bottle. And since the wrapping always counts for the gift, the label couldn't help but be fancy. And of course easily recognizable!
The shocking examples
A choice has been made (which was an extremely difficult task, among many) but July raises the following:
1. PETIT SAUVAGE! BLANC 2023 - PIERRE & ANTONIN
The flamboyant Pierre Caizergues and Antoin Bonnet have gone beyond sustainable farming and taken zero footprints on the environment to another level. To be precise, zero. They keep everything low, with less water and energy consumption, zero interference with the wine, and use of packaging materials from the wider area, with the goal of zero waste. Innovative they introduced us to the Souvignier Gris hybrid variety and using conical tanks, the result is cool, lemony, and dry. Wash balconies, terraces, and place pergolas, cause this wine is born for such situations.
2. THE ILLUSTRIOUS - HARTMAN X MOLAVI
There are personalities and there are "characters". Two such upset Xinomavro and made an outstanding sparkling wine. The Romeiko came in to stir up the spirit of Xinomavro a little more, while its 4-year stay in the bottle gave it volume and the advantage to match with anything you can imagine. You don't need special recommendations, just try the first sip and the rest will blow you away. AGAIN-we're taking it off, but it's worth it. It is a wine full of confidence, if you look at the face of the label you will understand.
3. STALISMA ROSE 2022 - KAMARA WINERY
I dream of spending the summer days in a mountain village and sitting in the square under the "thick" shade of a plane tree, listening to the gurgling water flowing from a small river and enjoying local snacks, with this wine. Sentiment that is, name and thing (literally it is the resting of the sheep flock in the shade). A natural rosé from Xinomavro cultivated with the principles of permaculture, comes to your glass like a pink bubble of dew, with fresh cherry aromas, crisp acidity, and rich, delightful foam!
4. TU VIN PLUS AUX SOIREES... 2022 - FABIEN JOUVES
Funkiness overloaded or otherwise, if that's not a funky label what is? The only certain thing is that it does not go unnoticed and the content is as impressive as it is. Fabien Jouves mixed two mountain varieties and bottled a masterpiece with intense freshness and punch, which is the joy of those who want to enjoy red wine all summer long. Biodynamic cultivation, natural vinification, zero sulfites, concrete tanks, oak barrels, unfiltered bottling, aromas of violet, blackcurrant, black cherry, vanilla, licorice, and eucalyptus wear masks and peep your reactions as you taste it. All of your senses will be having a party.
5. TSOLIKOURI 2022 – MAKARIDGE
How about innovations and things you don't meet often? Georgia is one of the oldest wine-producing countries in the world and the winemaking methods are among the most special we have come across. The clay qvevri vessels buried in the earth, allow the fermentation to take place at the natural temperature of the soil and result in unique aromas of citrus, cooked apricot, and apple, with crisp acidity and freshness, which fits like a glove with all the oils of summer.
6. VIGNE SAUVAGE ROSE PET NAT 2023 - PIERRE & ANTONIN
The duo strikes again, this time with a rosé sparkling with aromas of fresh strawberry and white flowers. A pet nat from the "wild vines", of the Languedoc and the Grenache variety to give a recital. The unique fermentation takes place in tanks with natural yeasts from the environment, while the wine is then bottled unfiltered. Its color reminds you of something almost precious and fragile. It looks fragile, but the imprint of the "wild vines" is distinguished by the intensity of the aromas and the long aftertaste.
7. SHERIFF FATMAN 2023 - WINERY HATZAKIS SYROS
It's been 4 years now and the chubby Sheriff, although he seems to be threatening us with his gun, we've come to love him. The Serifiotiko variety from Syros gives exuberant wines, which get the sheriff star for the aromas of bergamot, quince, lemon, and peach, while the mineral notes make the difference. Shellfish, fish, and anything fried with an oily flavor must be paraded in front of our beloved Sheriff, he has a name to justify.
Christina Tsogka
